Jelena Pavlovic, creative director of Textil - Modern heroines wear fabrics designed in Uzice

(Jelena Pavlovic)

Uzice-based Textil is a proof that not all the economy gravitates towards Belgrade, that even a small family firm can be internationally successful and that creativity can beat the economic crisis. The length of materials that this company designs, produces and sells equalled the distance to Paris two years ago, while it now equals the distance to London.

Materials with the signature of Textil have reached the countries of the EU, Russia, Canada, Balkan, and fashion experts recognize them in the designs worn by Lady Gaga.

The history of this family firm starts in the 1930s, but the company did not get its current name and the final identity until 1991. Few years later, Textil first opened a warehouse and a branch office in Belgrade and then set up an office in China as well.

Here is an interview that eKapija did with Textil Creative Director Jelena Pavlovic.

eKapija: Where does Textil produce materials designed in Serbia?

- Almost all production, processing and finishing of fabrics is done abroad due to a possibility of using raw materials of higher quality and up-to-date machines and technologies, particularly in the finishing process. The countries of origin are China, Italy, Germany, Turkey, Bulgaria. These are mainly Italian companies that have relocated part of their production.

We find interesting the manufacturers from Italy, France, Japan...

eKapija: In which markets are your materials available?

- We mainly export our materials to the Balkan region, that is, to Bosnia-Herzegovina, Macedonia, Croatia, while the export of fabrics to Albania is due to start very soon. A bigger portion of production is exported indirectly, through our clients, who export ready-made products made of our materials to Europe, Russia, Ukraine, Canada...

eKapija: What guides you when choosing the fabrics for the next season?

- There are always several parameters that dictate the selection of materials, patterns and colors for the next season. Global trends are the most important, especially those pertaining to the Italian market, but we also have to take into account who our clients and their target groups are, which of the global trends they are willing to accept, etc.

eKapija: Who dictates fashion trends when it comes to the choice of materials?

- Fashion trends are different from country to country, and so are the influences... The strongest impulses are currently related to a mix of African and Asian cultures, where two centers stand out - Seoul and Tokyo. In our country, this influence is reflected in the presence of fluorescent, bright colors in sports wear and terracotta tones in fashion collections. Scandinavian countries are conquering almost all European markets with its practical, casual and modern forms.

eKapija: What is, in your opinion, the most interesting and the best fashion trade show in the world?

- The most interesting and the most dynamic is definitely Bread&Butter, especially when it comes to ready-made collections of famous brands. As far as fabrics are concerned, Premier Vision is unmatched. It is held twice a year in Paris for this part of the world, twice in New York, and once in Tokyo, Sao Paolo, Shangai, Beijing, Moscow... These cities clearly define geo-fashion trends.

eKapija: With which domestic fashion companies and designers do you cooperate?

- Numerous large and small fashion companies are our clients. Designers represent that non-commercial, creative moment that we always stress and cherish, which is why we have established the Textil award for the best young designer, which is presented twice a year at some of the fashion events in Belgrade. Marko Mitanovski was among the first laureates, followed by Tatjana Tatalovic, etc.

eKapija: Your materials have reached Lady Gaga through clothing designed by Marko Mitanovski. How important for your promotion is that a celebrity wears a piece of clothing made of your materials?

- If we had a brand of ready-made clothing, that would be a "must have," mandatory, inevitable... But if we thought that way, we would not need a workspace decorated with architectural and other awards... That is an image we are building, that is what we want and what we are. We are ambitious, optimistic, open, and we live in harmony with the rest of the world.

eKapija: Do you plan to open retail stores?

- We already have retail stores on the local level, which also serve as showrooms, but we don't plan any expansion at the moment.

eKapija: How many people work at Textil?

- Textil has close to 40 employees in the country and about 10 workers in China, where we have an office and a control center. Aside from permanent employees, we also hire outsourcers, such as fashion and graphic designers, programmers, advisors...

eKapija: Is Textil satisfied with its business results, given that most companies complaint about the economic crisis?

- By listening to my statements, you could get an impression that the company Textil is not affected by the economic crisis, but you would be wrong. Actually, the reason why I have told you all this is the crisis, because that is, in our opinion, the only way to rationally deal with its aspects and timely change or adapt our way of doing business. The operations are always affected by internal and external factors, and we focus on the former because it is harder to change the latter, which usually do not depend on us that much!

eKapija: What are Textil's plans for the following period?

- We primarily plan to conquer new markets, develop new consulting products for our strategic clients and establish new tools for testing trends on both global and local level.

Suzana Obradovic